Futaeorimono (double technique brocade) (二陪織物)

"Futaeorimono" (or "Futabeorimono") is a fabric on which two kinds of patterns are arranged; the one is called 'jimon' (textile pattern), running patterns such as kikko (hexagonal pattern) and karakusa (arabesque) that spread over a fabric, and the other called 'uwamon,' patterns of marumon (round pattern) and kachomon (pattern of flowers and birds) which are woven with colored threads different from those of jimon and arranged at random. It is also written as "二重織物."

Usually, uwamon is woven with enuki (threads only used for making patterns and irrelevant to keii [the warp and the weft] for weaving a fabric) on the jimon of ukiorimono, a fabric with raised patterns that are woven by raising the weft like embroidery thread. In rare cases, jimon is made with Kataorimono (hard woven) style. A fabric whose jimon and uwamon are both hard woven is called 'shizumeori' and distinguished from futaeorimono. Also, the one without jimon and has only patterns woven with enuki was called "karaorimono" after the Kamakura period. The above is the origin of the karaori (Chinese weaving) of Noh costume.

The term "futaeorimono" is seen in the documents written in the Heian period as well as in the subsequent times, and it was particularly used by noble women. In addition, nyobo (court ladies) sometimes wore futaeorimono-made clothes en masse as livery imposed by their masters. However, futaeorimono was often the target of sumptuary laws, and even regulations were issued to ban its use by not only nyobo but also the noble women.

Futaeorimono was used for women's karaginu (a waist length Chinese style jacket), omotegi (outer garment) and kouchigi (informal outer robe) as well as for boys' hakama (men's formal divided skirt) before genpuku (coming of age).

[Original Japanese]