Tsune-shozoku (ordinary costumes) (常装束)

Tsune-shozoku means a set of most ordinary costumes worn by performers of bugaku (traditional Japanese court music accompanied by dancing on stage). Its official name is Kasane-shozoku.


Okuchi (a hakama skirt, divided and pleated skirt for men, with a wide bottom):
It is a red hakama skirt with wide open hems at the bottom. It is worn as underwear of ue no hakama (upper hakama skirt).

Sashinuki no hakama (a hakama skirt with wringed hems):
It is a kind of hakama skirt tailored very wide using eight pieces of plain silk or twilled silk cloths. When wearing, its hems at the bottom are wringed. It is called kukurio no hakama (a skirt with hem-tying strings).

Hitoe (unlined garment):
It is a red underwear without lining.
As a costume for bugaku dancing, this underwear is united with shitagasane (a long inner robe.)

This is a long inner robe with trailing hems, to be worn under hanpi (sleeveless body wear).

Although the word hanpi means a kind of body wear without sleeves, when used as a costume for bugaku dancing, it is a gorgeously embroidered garment with narrow sleeves. A narrow decorative strap called 'wasure-o' is hung from its waist position.

Ho (round-necked robe):
It is a kind of outerwear with banryo/marueri (round collar).

Torikabuto (a traditional hat for bugaku players):
This is a kind of decoration worn by a man on his head.

Fugake (greaves):
This term means leg-guards in the shape of gaiters made of brocades.

Shigai (shoes made of silk threads):
This means shoes made of silk threads.

Some programs of bugaku dance and music may adopt sets of costumes different from the above ordinary one.

Ryoto-shozoku (a costume of bugaku players following a formal dress of military officers):
There are two kinds of such costumes, one bordered with gold brocades and another with furs. This costume is used when players perform huge movements such as a running dance. Thus, bugaku players wear kantoi (simple type of clothing consisting of a large piece of cloth with a hole in the middle for the head) that is called ryoto, with cuffs of the sleeves tied at the wrists.

Bane-shozoku (a costume including a ho outerwear that has embroideries of bane pictures, a kind of pictures of animals, on it):
This costume corresponds to the clothing of kachie (a mobile costume with bane, pictures of animals, printed on its outerwear's chests) designed for junior class military officers called zuijin (literally, "people from Chinese dynasty of Sui"). A crown of kenei-kan (a crown with a rolled-up rear decorative band called ei) is worn in combination.

[Original Japanese]